Easy LED Installation tutorial/instruction

Interested in installing LED in your gunpla kits? Well, look further no more because here is a tutorial in how to do it. Installing LED is not hard as you might think. In fact, I find the process to very fun and challenging.
LED installation has multiple steps and each step can differ depending on your materials(type of led, preferred circuit, preferred installation method) and the kit the you are planning to install LED in. There are also many factors to consider before doing any LED installations. Here are some that I think is very important factors that needs to be considered:

1) Materials
LED installation is not cheap! I, personally, spent about $100 just to get the tools and materials needed. However, if you can find better alternatives, then please go ahead and purchase those instead. However, there are tools that you do need to get. Also, depending on the kit that you will be working with, you will need to buy materials(mainly LED) that will fit with the kit.

2) Gunpla Kit
Its self-explanatory really, since you will be installing LED in a gunpla kit. Things to consider: how many LED should I install, where can I install the LED inside the kit, how should I wire the LEDs, do I have enough space in the kit to install LED in, what modifications do I need to do? Often times, you will need to modify the kit in order to install LED. Also, there will be times where you will have to sacrifice certain gimmicks to accommodate the LED. Ex: the transformation gimmick in SD unicorn. I personally recommend installing LED on any SD unicorn kits and I will be providing some schematics and possible modifications for these kits.

3) Power source
You need power to light those LEDS!

4) The order of processes
Plan your building process. I recommend this order: build, led installation, paint

There's more to consider but you can figure that out yourself later!

Now for the materials:
Soldering Iron + solder
LED (preferably 3 mm/ 5mm or those prewired smds, or any that fits your needs)
Resistors
Wires
Heat shrink
Helping hands
Drill bits(optional)
Wired alligator clips(optional but very helpful)
Power source(I recommend a usb cable)
Hobby knife
Nippers
Gunpla kit

Okay lets get started!

Part 1: Understanding basic circuitry
If you've taken a basic physics class in college, you will learn about some basic circuitry. I honestly cannot remember much but I know enough to install LEDs and that's all I need. I will now share those knowledge so that you can install your LED perfectly and not accidentally toast them.

Types of circuit: Series vs Parallel

Series Circuit:

The battery, LED, resistors are wired in one big loop. Very simple but the only implication is that you need to have the enough amount of voltage from your power source to power your LEDs. For example if you're using 4 LED with 3v forward voltage, you will need 12v.

After you have done all the connections and wiring and are about to do you're last solder, remember to connect positive with positive and negative to negative.
Also never, ever forget to install resistors or you will TOAST your LEDs.

Summary: If you have a big enough power source (9v/12v) and you're planning to do install only 3-4 LED then just wire it in series and use the appropriate resistor. If you have something like 5v of power source, then parallel is you friend.
Since we are using 5v power source(USB cable), we will need to use parallel circuit in order to successfully light 2+ LEDs.

Part 2: How to solder
Soldering is a very EASY process. Not hard at all. Just don't touch the tip of the soldering iron and you'll be fine. Why do we need to solder? Because we want to connect to wires/nodes together firmly and securely. Sure we can just tape them with electrical tape. But if you're wiring starts to fall apart later, don't blame me.
Now how do you actually solder? Here are the steps:
- If you have 2 wires, cut a piece of the rubber covering and expose a good half an inch to an inch of wires.
- Before you connect those wires, remember to place a heat shrink on one of the wires.
- Connect the wires by meshing them together. It helps to do this with your helping hands.
- Turn on your soldering iron! Set 200 C. Wait a little bit. Then using your solder, "melt" some of the solder by placing the tip of your soldering iron on the connected wires and keep it there.This will essentially heat up those wires. Then place your solder on the heated wire surface and the solder will melt like butter!
- When cooled, place the heat shrink on top of the solder connection, essentially covering it. Then using your soldering iron, "heat" up the heat shrink.
Note: remember to wear a face mask and have a good ventilation when soldering. Don't inhale the fumes!

Part 3: LED placement in kits
This is honestly the hardest part of LED installation because you will have to figure out how to install them in kits not meant to have LED in the first place. So here are some tips:
1. If there are clear parts, often times, you can place LED behind it.
2. Think about how you will run the wires! If anything, there will be a lot of wires sticking out of the gunpla which is fine!
3. Modifications will be necessary! You will need to make holes, dig some plastic out, and some parts out to accommodate the LED.
4. How do you want a certain part to be lit up? Obviously, one way to do this is to have a LED light it up. But what if there are areas where you just can't install LED? One way to go is to allow the light to bleed into that area and use reflective materials(for example: aluminum foil) to enhance the light

Part 4: Which LED to use?
This is the best part of the process for me. Because this is the part that can make the kit look hella good or hella crap. Things to consider are colors and "types of light."

Color:
Which one to use?
Answer: depends
If you have clear parts on top of your LED, consider using a LED that matches the color of the clear part. You can also you white. If you have a non-colored clear parts, then you are free to use ANY color you want. Be creative!
Bottom line, when in doubt, use white!

Type of light/LED
There are different types of LED that will emit different brightness, color and even type of light. I like to use clear bulbs as they are the most brightest. The colored bulbs are okay in terms of brightness. These types of LED, however, bleed a lot of light. So if you're planning to turn you're kit into a nite lite then either types will do. If you want a dimmer look, consider using UV led. However, use this only if your clear parts glow in UV light. Bonus: all SD unicorn clear parts glow in UV light.

Schematics for SD unicorn types

6 LEDs:

*It says 40 ohms but to be safe I used 87 ohms and the brightness was the same. So use between 40-87 ohms. Test for brightness.

8 LEDs (consumes more resistors):

*Ignore the 10 ohms resistor next to the battery. Note: connect the 100 ohms resistor on the negative side.

Review: Real Grade 1/144 00 Qan[T]

Its been a while. Completely forgot about this blog lol. Well anyways this is actually my first review of gunpla. I'll be reviewing the real grade 00 qan [T], the third iteration of exia, in fact, its a combination of exia and 00's design. In addition to this, I bought an extension to this kit from a third party called Effect Wings to recreate the the 00 Qan[T] Full Saber.

Box

Runners; 11 in total for the actual kit itself

Inner frame; front

Inner frame; back

articulated hand

Knee articulation

figure 1. Dab

One interesting fact about this kit is that if you follow the manual, you build the frame first and you put on armor panels on the frame. So its kinda cool to see the frame before the completion of the kit itself.

As you can see, even with the addition of armor panels, the articulation is not impeded or restricted whatsoever.

With the weapons and back pack completed, here is the RG 00 Qan[T] out of the box.

Now the GN Sword IV.

I didn't show it here but this giant sword is actually made of a 4 sword bits which can be used indvidually and have many combinations and modes themselves.

And here it is with everything attached. I took the liberty of taking many pictures.

Overall, this kit is a step above the high grade. Its solid and comes with alot of gimmicks even in 1/144 scale. Its sleek design means that articulation will be one of the best. There are however many problems that I encountered with this kit. I don't know if its just my particular kit or a problem on all but the backpack and shield connection is just weak and horrible. Its a small peg that goes in to a hole but the peg is so short that while it does go in the hole, it can be easily popped out. You can actually see it on the picture above, in which the shield is already ready to pop out of the connection. In addition, the head join that connects the head to the torso doesn't really fit in snugly in the head socket as qan[t]'s head armor is quite big. Therefore, you only get a very small up and down articulation with the head. If you try to make the head look up, it will just pop out. My verdict, if you want a good looking qan[T] right out of the box get this kit. If those articulation problems that I encountered, which you may not encounter when you buy your own kit, worry you or turn you off then get the HG version and just pretty it up. If you have $10 more dollars lying around, I suggest just get the MG.